New York City’s Enduring Love Affair with Pickles

Paul van Ravestein and Monique Mulder, researchers from Amsterdam, explored the surprisingly long history of pickles in New York City, culminating in their new book, “The Pickled City.” The pair discovered historical photographs revealing a thriving network of nearly one hundred pickle purveyors on the Lower East Side in the early 20th century. Their research connected the tradition to current businesses like Russ & Daughters, a family-owned appetizing shop that began with a barrel of herring and has expanded to nationwide shipping and a restaurant.

The authors also found that the pickle’s appeal has continued into the modern era, evidenced by the success of Sweet Pickle Books, a bookstore that unexpectedly became a popular pickle vendor after a TikTok trend. This resurgence reflects a broader interest in fermentation and a desire to connect with culinary heritage. The story of the pickle in New York is presented not just as a food history, but as a reflection of resilience, branding, and cultural legacy.