Nieves Ye preserves authentic Cantonese cuisine in Madrid

Nieves Ye operates Don Lay, a restaurant in Madrid that serves traditional Cantonese food.

The owner, who moved to Spain from Zhejiang, China, manages the establishment to provide a culinary experience that mirrors what people eat in China without modifications. Ye learned the trade from her father, Suiyou Ye, who died shortly before the business opened. Don Lay first began serving customers in 2002 at a location in the Extremadura area.

After 14 years of success at that site, construction issues forced the business to move to the Salamanca neighborhood in 2009. The current space, designed by Cousi Interiorismo, serves local residents, tourists, and professional chefs. Under the direction of chef Fu Ling, the kitchen prepares seasonal ingredients using steam and grilling techniques to maintain natural flavors without chemicals or heavy sauces. Ye also runs Wanrun, an artisanal workshop established in 2015 that produces dim sum for other hospitality businesses.

The menu features staples like lacquered duck and handmade dim sum filled with ingredients such as blue lobster and scallops. The restaurant recently expanded its menu to include a selection of Chinese wines curated by sommelier Marco Contreras Arellano. These wines are made from grains like glutinous rice or sorghum. Ye also serves traditional broths and a variety of cocktails and tomato juices.