Guinea-Bissau’s Bijagós islands face tradition and trash
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Paulo Ramalho, a Portuguese poet and anthropologist, traveled to the Bijagós Archipelago in Guinea-Bissau to revisit his childhood home and investigate the social structures of the Bijagó people.
Ramalho lived in Guinea-Bissau from 1973-1974 and wanted to understand how the matriarchal elements and age-based social classes of the Bijagó would adapt to modern times. He journeyed between islands, seeking answers from local figures but often met with resistance and a sense that outsiders rushed their questions.
The archipelago, though ecologically rich, is increasingly threatened by plastic waste, which Ramalho describes as pervasive and overwhelming. He observed piles of trash accumulating in streets and along shorelines, noting the lack of proper waste disposal systems. While tourism offers some potential for regeneration, Ramalho fears it may become another destructive force. During his travels, Ramalho met individuals attempting to address these challenges.
K, a former martial arts champion, returned from Europe to invest in the islands and promote tourism, while J, a local guide, spearheaded a public health initiative in his village and facilitated connections with aid organizations. Despite these efforts, Ramalho also witnessed the deterioration of historical sites and the exploitation of natural resources, leaving him to question the long-term sustainability of the Bijagó way of life.
