A southwestern estate: family, memory, and change

In Portugal’s Alentejo region, a man reflects on how his brother’s purchase of a rural estate shaped his childhood and forged lasting intergenerational bonds.

The author recalls a childhood spent between the coastal town of Cascais and visits to his older brother, Nunão, who lived in Amsterdam but returned for holidays bearing gifts and companionship. These visits were filled with games and a sense of familial warmth, a contrast to the author’s otherwise solitary early years.

In 1988, Nunão bought an old estate in the Alentejo’s Southwest, intending to start a rural tourism business, a pioneering idea at the time. The property, located near Cercal, was initially a dilapidated monte, a traditional rural dwelling, consisting of a tavern, a small market, and agricultural outbuildings. The area was then sparsely populated, with simple homes and a slow pace of life rooted in generations of tradition.

The author vividly describes the landscape and the people, noting the contrast between the remote, traditional life of the locals and the growing influx of tourists. He recounts spending his summers helping his brother renovate the estate, performing tasks like gardening, construction, and serving guests. These experiences fostered a deep connection to the land and a sense of belonging, cementing the Alentejo as a deeply personal place imbued with cherished memories.

The author writes this piece as a tribute to his brother, who recently passed away, and notes that the estate, now run by his sister-in-law and nephews, continues to thrive.